From the Ottomans to Today: The Evolution of Meyhane Culture

Meyhane culture has been in continuous transformation from the late Ottoman period to the new-generation movement of the 2020s. In this article, trace the centuries-long story of Istanbul’s meyhanes — from licensed Ottoman taverns to the Republic’s golden age to today’s rediscovery.

Ottoman Era: Non-Muslim Operators and the Gedikli System

In the Ottoman Empire, meyhanes were primarily run by Greek, Armenian, and Jewish communities. The "gedikli meyhane" system required a state licence, and opening a tavern meant meeting specific conditions. In this era, a meyhane was not merely a drinking establishment — it was a place for social gatherings, business meetings, and cultural exchange. Galata, Beyoğlu, and Üsküdar were Istanbul’s main meyhane districts.

Republic Era: Democratisation and the Golden Age (1923–1980)

With the founding of the Republic, meyhane culture democratised. People from all walks of life could now visit. The period from 1950 to 1980 is considered the golden age of Istanbul’s meyhane culture. Koço Restaurant was founded precisely in this era — in 1928. Literary giants like Fazıl Hüsnü Dağlarca, Cemal Süreya, and Arif Damar were regular patrons during this golden period. The meyhane became a space of intellectual freedom.

Years of Change: 1980–2010

In the 1980s, Istanbul changed rapidly. Many historic meyhanes closed, replaced by modern restaurants. But rooted establishments like Koço held firm. Their music-free atmospheres, unchanged recipes, and career staff preserved the tradition. This period is a story of noble resistance.

2010s–Today: New Generation Rediscovery

Young generations rediscovered meyhane culture. “New-generation meyhanes” emerged with fusion meze, modern design, and cocktail menus. Yet classic meyhanes became more popular than ever — for guests seeking authenticity, century-old venues like Koço became essential. Today, meyhane culture thrives in both its classic and modern forms.

Koço’s Role: A Century-Long Bridge

Koço Restaurant has been a living bridge of Istanbul’s meyhane culture since 1928. Founded in the post-Ottoman Republic era, it hosted the golden age’s literary greats, resisted the years of change, and now meets the new generation. It is one of the rare establishments that has lived through every phase of meyhane culture’s evolution.

Frequently Asked Questions

When did meyhane culture begin?

It became institutionalised during the Ottoman Empire, particularly from the 17th century onwards.

Who ran meyhanes in the Ottoman era?

Primarily Greek, Armenian, and Jewish communities under the gedikli meyhane licensing system.

Is meyhane culture dying?

No, it thrives through both new-generation venues and century-old classics like Koço Restaurant.

What era does Koço Restaurant belong to?

Founded in 1928 during the Republic’s golden age, Koço has served continuously ever since.