Meyhane Glossary: 30 Terms from Çilingir Sofrası to Lion's Milk
Many words you hear at a meyhane, the traditional Turkish tavern, never appear on the menu: çilingir sofrası, lion's milk, müdavim. This glossary explains 30 of them as heard every day at Koço, a century-old meyhane across from Moda Pier, open since 1928. For choosing where to go, it pairs with our Kadıköy meyhane guide.
Short answer: A meyhane is a traditional Turkish tavern where rakı (an anise spirit) and meze (small shared plates) accompany long, unhurried conversation. That table is called a çilingir sofrası, and lion's milk is rakı's nickname, because it turns milky white with water. The 30 terms below fall into four groups: table and drink, cold meze, hot dishes and fish, people and place.
Table and Drink Vocabulary: From Meyhane to Şerefe
• Meyhane — From the Persian mey (wine) and hane (house): a tavern where drink is taken slowly, with food and talk.
• Meze — Small shared plates: cold ones arrive on a tray to choose from, hot ones are ordered later; they set the evening's pace.
• Çilingir sofrası — Literally "the locksmith's table": an unhurried rakı table where meze arrive a few at a time, said to be named for how good talk unlocks the tongue; more in what a çilingir sofrası is.
• Rakı — Turkey's anise-flavoured grape spirit. At Koço rakı goes in first, then cold water (usually one part to two, varying by taste); ice comes separately and goes in last, if at all.
• Aslan sütü — "Lion's milk", rakı's folk name: it turns milky white with water, and the lion hints at its strength.
• Sek — Rakı drunk neat, usually with a glass of cold water alongside.
• Tek / duble — Everyday glass measures: tek is a single, duble a double; the waiter will ask which.
• Şerefe — The Turkish toast, roughly "to honour", made with eye contact; more etiquette in how to drink rakı.
Cold Meze: From Lakerda to Melon and Cheese
• Lakerda — Salt-cured bonito, sliced thick, with onion rings and lemon; the crown of the cold tray.
• Çiroz — Lean, sun-dried mackerel, beaten and shredded, then dressed with vinegar, olive oil and dill.
• Fava — A smooth, chilled purée of dried broad beans with olive oil, lemon and dill.
• Haydari — Thick strained yoghurt worked with garlic and mint or dill.
• Topik — A cold meze of Armenian origin: chickpeas and potato with onion, currants and tahini; an old Istanbul classic.
• Atom — A cold meze of strained yoghurt topped with fried dried hot peppers; the name refers to the heat, which the yoghurt tempers.
• Semizotu — Fresh purslane folded into garlicky yoghurt; a refreshing summer plate.
• Tarama — A pale pink spread of fish roe whipped with bread, olive oil and lemon.
• Pilaki — Borlotti or white beans cooked in olive oil with onion, carrot and potato, served cold.
• Kavun-peynir — Melon and white cheese, one of rakı's simplest companions, often first to the table in season.
Hot Dishes and Fish: From Ara Sıcak to Buğulama
• Ara sıcak — "In-between hot": small warm dishes between the cold meze and the fish; at Koço, fried calamari, prawn güveç (clay-pot casserole) and grilled octopus.
• Buğulama — Fish steamed under a lid with a little water, tomato, onion and parsley; a simple method that keeps fish moist.
• Izgara — Grilled, usually over charcoal; suits oily, meaty fish.
• Tava — Pan-fried in a light flour coating; the usual treatment for small, slender fish.
• Mevsim balığı — "Fish of the season": whatever is in best condition that day. At Koço fish is chosen daily from the counter; ask the waiter.
• Tezgâh — The iced counter displaying the day's fish; checking eyes and gills before choosing is part of the tradition.
People and Place: From Müdavim to Ayazma
• Müdavim — A regular with a usual table and waiter; much of a century-old meyhane's memory lives with its müdavims.
• Fasıl — Live Turkish music offered at some meyhanes; Koço is music-free, and conversation comes first.
• Garson / usta — The garson (waiter) guides the table, suggesting meze, fish and their order; the usta (master) is the experienced cook.
• Hesap / adisyon — The bill, adisyon coming from the French addition; nobody rushes it at a meyhane.
• Ayazma — A Greek Orthodox holy spring; beneath Koço's building lies the Aya Ekaterini holy spring, dedicated to Saint Catherine.
• İskele — A ferry pier; in Kadıköy a meyhane evening often begins at one. Koço sits across from Moda Pier, facing the Sea of Marmara.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does çilingir sofrası mean?
Çilingir sofrası, literally "the locksmith's table", is an unhurried rakı table where meze arrive slowly and talk is the point.
Why is rakı called lion's milk?
Rakı turns milky white when water is added, and the lion hints at its strength, hence the folk name aslan sütü.
Do you add water or ice to rakı first?
Rakı first, then cold water; ice comes separately and goes in last, if at all. About one part rakı to two parts water is usual, varying by taste.
Is atom a spicy meze?
Yes. Atom is a cold meze of strained yoghurt topped with fried dried hot peppers; the yoghurt tempers the heat.
Does every meyhane have fasıl music?
No. Some meyhanes offer live fasıl, while music-free meyhanes such as Koço keep the table for conversation.
Knowing these 30 terms makes a meyhane table feel familiar; the rest is for asking the waiter. Koço is across from Moda Pier at Moda Caddesi No:171, open daily 12:00–00:00; reservations on +90 216 336 07 95. For the history behind the words, see Istanbul's oldest meyhanes.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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