From the European Side to a Kadıköy Meyhane: Ferry, Moda and the Way Back
Staying on the European side and planning an evening at a meyhane (a traditional Turkish tavern built around meze, fish and rakı)? The ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy reaches Kadıköy in about twenty minutes, and the crossing becomes part of the evening. From Kadıköy pier it is a short walk or tram ride to Moda, where Koço, a century-old meyhane serving guests since 1928, stands across from Moda Pier.
Short answer: The most enjoyable way from the European side to Kadıköy is the ferry: Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy takes about 20 minutes. From Kadıköy pier, Moda is about a 15-minute walk or a ride on the T3 Moda tram; Koço is at Moda Caddesi No:171, across from Moda Pier. Head back by ferry or Marmaray, checking current timetables before you set out. Open daily 12:00–00:00; book by phone on +90 216 336 07 95.
Why Take the Ferry? The Crossing Is Part of the Evening
Of the ways to reach Kadıköy from the European side, the ferry suits a meyhane evening best. Board at Eminönü or Karaköy; the historic peninsula slips behind you and open water spreads ahead. The twenty-minute crossing is just long enough to shift from the pace of the day to the pace of the table.
Tea on deck, gulls overhead and fresh air instead of bridge traffic. For the wider picture, our Kadıköy meyhane guide sets the scene; this article is about the journey.
From Kadıköy Pier to Moda: Walk or Tram?
From Kadıköy pier, Moda is roughly fifteen minutes on foot. Cut through the Çarşı, Kadıköy's busy market quarter of shops and narrow streets, or follow the calmer shoreline with the sea in view. Our Moda waterfront walking guide covers the seaside route in detail.
The alternative is the T3 Moda tram, a nostalgic line looping between Kadıköy and Moda, handy if you would rather not walk or are travelling with older relatives. If you are still deciding which part of the district to spend the evening in, Kadıköy Çarşı or Moda? compares the two.
Both routes bring you to Moda Caddesi. Koço is at number 171, directly across from Moda Pier; once you can see the pier, you have arrived.
Arriving at Koço: The Ferry View, Now from the Terrace
The view you watched from the ferry now faces you from the terrace: the Sea of Marmara, the Princes' Islands, Fenerbahçe and the silhouette of the historic peninsula. The garden and terrace are open all year; if you want to time your crossing for the evening light, our guide to a sunset dinner in Moda will help.
Koço is a music-free meyhane, with no live band and no fasıl (traditional live tavern music), so the conversation started on the ferry carries on at the table. The meal opens with cold meze (small shared plates), moves on to hot starters and continues with the day's seasonal fish from the counter; for first-visit suggestions, see what to order at Koço.
Getting Back: Ferry or Marmaray?
The journey home is often the last thing people think about on a meyhane evening. Two options lead back to the European side: ferry or Marmaray. For the ferry, retrace your steps to Kadıköy pier, about fifteen minutes on foot or a short tram ride. The night crossing feels quite different from the daytime one: city lights on the water and cool air on deck.
Ferry services vary with the season and the day of the week, so check the current timetable before you leave the table. If the ferry times do not suit you, the Marmaray, the rail line that runs beneath the Bosphorus, is the alternative.
Decide roughly how you will get back before you set out; the evening then goes on meze and conversation, not the clock.
Practical Notes Before You Go
• Reservations are taken by phone on +90 216 336 07 95; calling ahead is a good idea for weekend evenings.
• Koço is open every day from 12:00 to 00:00.
• The terrace and garden are open all year; bring a light layer for the evening breeze off the sea.
• Ferry and Marmaray services change, so check current timetables before setting out.
• For the current menu, see Finedine.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the ferry from the European side to Kadıköy?
The ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy takes about 20 minutes. Timetables vary by season and day, so check the current schedule before you go.
How do I get from Kadıköy pier to Koço?
Walk about 15 minutes to Moda, through the market quarter or along the shore, or take the T3 Moda tram. Koço is at Moda Caddesi No:171, across from Moda Pier.
How do I get back to the European side from Kadıköy at night?
Take the ferry from Kadıköy pier or the Marmaray rail line under the Bosphorus. Evening services vary, so check current timetables before you leave.
Do I need to book a table at Koço?
Booking ahead by phone on +90 216 336 07 95 is recommended, especially for weekend evenings. Koço is open daily 12:00–00:00 and seats more than 500 across the indoor hall, garden and terrace.
Is there live music at Koço?
No. Koço is a music-free meyhane with no live band or fasıl; conversation comes first.
Arriving by ferry and walking to Moda turns a Kadıköy meyhane evening into a small journey of its own. On the terrace across from Moda Pier the sea is back in front of you; plan the way home in advance and the rest of the evening can belong to the table.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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