Kadıköy Çarşı or Moda? Choosing Where to Spend a Meyhane Evening
Planning a meyhane evening in Kadıköy (a night at a traditional Turkish tavern, built around small plates and rakı) starts with the neighbourhood, not the menu. Do you want the narrow, crowded streets of Çarşı, the old market district, or the seafront and sea views of Moda? They are a short walk apart, yet the pace of the evening is completely different. We write from the Moda side: Koço, a century-old meyhane founded in 1928, is across from Moda Pier.
Short answer: Choose Kadıköy Çarşı for crowds, movement and street life; choose Moda for a sea view, a slower pace and a long conversation. The walk from Kadıköy's ferry pier to Moda takes about 15 minutes and can pass through Çarşı, so it is easy to start in one and finish in the other. Koço is at Moda Caddesi No:171, across from Moda Pier, open daily 12:00–00:00; reservations by phone on +90 216 336 07 95.
Kadıköy Çarşı: Crowded, Lively, Narrow Streets
Kadıköy Çarşı is the historic market district that spreads inland from the ferry pier: fishmongers, greengrocers, pickle shops and coffee sellers, with meyhanes, bars and small restaurants squeezed in between. The streets are narrow and the pavements busy; in the evening, tables spill outside and one table's conversation drifts into the next.
An evening in Çarşı is about movement. It suits people who want to hop between places, eat meze (small shared plates, cold and hot) in one spot and carry on in another, or find live music and fasıl, the traditional music session some meyhanes host. It is not the place for a quiet night, and the sea stays out of sight from most of its streets.
Moda: Seafront, Sea Views and a Slower Pace
Moda is the headland where Kadıköy reaches into the Sea of Marmara. Along Moda Caddesi the crowd thins, the streets widen, and trees and older apartment buildings take over. At the end of the avenue are the seafront and Moda Pier; across the water lie the Princes' Islands, Fenerbahçe and, on clear days, the skyline of the historic peninsula.
The pace in Moda is slow. A meyhane evening here means one table and one long conversation: watching the sun go down, finishing the meze without hurry, letting the rakı turn cloudy as the cold water goes in. For a sea-view meyhane in Istanbul, Kadıköy's answer is Moda, and the Moda side is also the better starting point for a quiet, music-free meyhane.
Which Evening Suits Which Neighbourhood?
There is no right or wrong choice; it depends on the evening you want:
• Hopping between places with friends, in the middle of the crowd: Çarşı.
• Dinner for two, a family meal, a business dinner or a big group at one long table by the sea: Moda.
• Live music or fasıl: Çarşı. Conversation without music competing for attention: Moda.
• Hosting a first-time visitor: Moda for the view and the calm, after a short stroll through Çarşı to see the district's everyday energy.
• Arriving by ferry from the European side: Çarşı is close to the pier, and the walk to Moda becomes part of the evening (see a meyhane evening from the European side to Kadıköy).
Combining Both: Walking from Çarşı to Moda
Kadıköy's advantage is that the two neighbourhoods run into each other. Start in Çarşı among the fish counters and the crowd, then walk down Moda Caddesi or along the shore road to dinner by the sea. From the pier it is about 15 minutes on foot, longer if you linger.
If you would rather not walk, the T3 Moda tram runs from the pier area to Moda. Our Moda waterfront walking guide covers the shore route; on the way back, reverse the walk or take the tram.
Koço in Moda: A Sea-View Table Across from Moda Pier
Koço is at Moda Caddesi No:171, across from Moda Pier. Founded in 1928 by Konstantinos "Koço" Korontos, a Greek from the island of Imbros (Gökçeada), it is still family-run and one of Istanbul's oldest surviving meyhanes. The terrace and garden face the Sea of Marmara and are open all year round; with the indoor dining room, there is seating for more than 500 guests.
It is a music-free meyhane: no live music, no fasıl, conversation first. The table is built on home-made cold and hot meze and the day's seasonal fish from the counter; the current menu is on Finedine. Reservations are by phone on +90 216 336 07 95.
For the wider district, see our Kadıköy meyhane guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Çarşı or Moda better for a meyhane evening in Kadıköy?
It depends on the evening you want: Kadıköy Çarşı for crowds and street life, Moda for sea views and quiet conversation. The two are within walking distance, so splitting the evening between them is easy.
How do I get from the Kadıköy ferry pier to Moda?
On foot it takes about 15 minutes, through Çarşı or along the shore. You can also take the T3 Moda tram.
Is there a meyhane with a sea view in Moda?
Yes. Koço, at Moda Caddesi No:171, is across from Moda Pier; its terrace and garden face the Sea of Marmara and are open all year round.
How do I book a table at Koço?
Reservations are by phone on +90 216 336 07 95. Koço is open daily 12:00–00:00 at Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul.
Çarşı's bustle and Moda's calm are both part of Kadıköy; the choice depends on the evening you want. If sea views and a long table draw you to Moda, you will find Koço, a century-old meyhane, across from Moda Pier.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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