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What to Order at Koço: A First-Visit Guide

6 days ago
4 min read

Koço is a century-old meyhane (a Turkish tavern built around meze, fish and rakı) that has been setting tables across from Moda Pier since 1928. First-time guests usually arrive with one question: what should we order? The meal has a rhythm, from cold meze to hot starters to the day's fish, and knowing it makes the evening easier.

Short answer: Start from the cold meze tray with classics such as lakerda (cured bonito), fava (broad bean purée) and atom (yoghurt with fried chillies); follow with fried calamari, shrimp güveç or grilled octopus; then ask the waiter which seasonal fish is good that day. Rakı is the classic drink; finish with soufflé or seasonal fruit. The current menu is on Finedine; Koço is at Moda Caddesi No:171, open daily 12:00–00:00, reservations on +90 216 336 07 95.

Ordering in stages: not everything at once

At Koço the table is built in stages: cold meze (small shared plates) first, then hot starters, and the seasonal fish last. The easiest first order is just the cold meze and drinks; the rest can follow the pace of the evening.

With no live music or fasıl, conversation sets the tempo. Koço's history since 1928 is told in the story of Koço; this guide sticks to what to order once you sit down.

Choosing from the cold meze tray

Cold meze come to the table on a tray, and you pick from the plates. Six classics to start with:

• Lakerda: thinly sliced salt-cured bonito, usually eaten with red onion.

• Fava: a soft, cold purée of dried broad beans in olive oil, often topped with dill.

• Patlıcan salatası: smoky grilled aubergine with olive oil and lemon.

• Topik: from Istanbul's Armenian kitchen; chickpeas and potato finished with tahini and currants.

• Atom: strained yoghurt topped with fried dried chillies, served cold.

• Semizotu: purslane, usually with yoghurt; fresh and light.

For two people, four or five cold meze is usually plenty, and the plates are shared. Guests who skip meat and fish will find most of their options on this tray; if in doubt, ask the waiter, or see our vegetarian meyhane meze guide.

Hot starters: calamari, shrimp güveç and grilled octopus

As the cold plates thin out, it is time for ara sıcak, the hot starters. Three classics stand out at Koço: kalamar tava (fried calamari, which meyhanes usually serve with tarator, a garlicky walnut sauce), karides güveç (shrimp baked in a clay pot) and ahtapot ızgara (grilled octopus, usually with olive oil and lemon).

Two of the three is plenty on a first visit, so the table is not full before the fish. Octopus also comes cold, as a salad.

Seasonal fish: ask what came in that day

Fish at Koço is chosen from the counter, and whatever came in that day sets the options. The most useful question is simply: which fish is good? The waiter will suggest what is in season; depending on the fish, it can be grilled (ızgara), pan-fried (tava) or steamed (buğulama).

Broadly, autumn belongs to bluefish (lüfer) and bonito (palamut), winter to anchovy (hamsi) and turbot (kalkan); month-by-month detail is in our seasonal fish guide. The classic sides are onion, parsley and lemon, plus a çoban salata (chopped tomato, cucumber and pepper).

How rakı is served, and what comes for dessert

At Koço, rakı goes into the glass first and cold water goes on top; ice comes in a separate bowl and is added last, only if you want it. The usual ratio is one part rakı to two parts water, adjusted to taste. If it is your first time, how to drink rakı is a good primer.

Wine, beer and soft drinks are also available. Dessert is simple: soufflé or seasonal fruit, and after fish, fruit makes a light finish.

Practical notes for a first visit

• Reservations by phone: +90 216 336 07 95; book ahead for weekend evenings and larger tables.

• Open daily 12:00–00:00, so lunch works as well as dinner.

• No live music or fasıl (traditional ensemble music); this is a meyhane for conversation.

• The indoor room, garden and terrace are open year-round; for the Marmara and Princes' Islands view, ask about the terrace when booking.

• Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, across from Moda Pier: about 15 minutes on foot from the Kadıköy ferry pier, or take the T3 Moda tram. For the wider area, see our Kadıköy meyhane guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the classic meze at Koço?

Koço's classic cold meze are lakerda, fava, patlıcan salatası, topik, atom and semizotu; the classic hot starters are fried calamari, shrimp güveç and grilled octopus. All are shared at the table.

How do you choose fish at Koço?

Fish at Koço is chosen from the counter and changes with what came in that day. Ask the waiter which seasonal fish is good, then have it grilled, pan-fried or steamed.

How is rakı served at Koço?

At Koço, rakı goes into the glass first, then cold water on top; ice comes separately and is added last, only if you want it. The usual ratio is one part rakı to two parts water, adjusted to taste.

Does Koço serve dessert?

Yes, Koço serves soufflé and seasonal fruit; after fish, fruit is the lighter finish.

Where can I see Koço's current menu?

Koço's current menu is on Finedine, and the fish options change daily. For reservations call +90 216 336 07 95; Koço is open daily 12:00–00:00.

Keep your first visit simple: a few cold meze, a hot starter or two, the day's fish and an unhurried conversation. The table across from Moda Pier and the view over the Marmara do the rest. To book, call +90 216 336 07 95.

Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00

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