Which Fish Is in Season in November? Istanbul's November Fish
In November, Istanbul's fish counters are usually led by hamsi (anchovy), istavrit (horse mackerel), palamut (bonito), lüfer (bluefish), mezgit (whiting) and kalkan (turbot); which fish is plentiful depends on the catch and the weather. For the whole year, see our seasonal fish guide. This guide was written by Koço Restaurant, a century-old meyhane across from Moda Pier.
Short answer: As the water cools in November, anchovy and horse mackerel become plentiful, bonito and bluefish usually stay on the counter but can thin out as the month goes on; whiting and turbot come forward as winter approaches. What is on the counter on a given day depends on the weather and the catch. If you want seasonal fish with rakı at a music-free table, Koço is a strong option.
Which Fish to Eat in November?
In Istanbul, November is a lively time of autumn for fish. As the Black Sea cools, some migratory species move down towards the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara, and fish that build up fat before winter are usually plumper. The list below is a general tendency: a storm or a mild week can easily change the balance on the counter.
Hamsi (anchovy)
Hamsi is the small, oily fish of the Black Sea; it starts to appear on Istanbul's counters from mid-autumn and stays on the table through winter. It is usually pan-fried, steamed or baked with rice, and its flavour becomes more pronounced as it fattens in the cold.
İstavrit (horse mackerel)
İstavrit is a small fish found all year that becomes plentiful in autumn and winter. It is usually pan-fried or grilled; because of its small size it is mostly cooked whole and is often seen at shared tables.
Palamut (bonito)
Palamut migrates from the Black Sea towards the Sea of Marmara in autumn and in Istanbul usually comes forward between September and November. By November it has usually grown larger; grilling or baking it is common.
Lüfer (bluefish)
Lüfer is known as Istanbul's autumn fish; shoals passing through the Bosphorus are usually still caught in November. It is loved grilled, cooking in its own fat. We covered how the season begins and the size differences in our bluefish season article.
Mezgit (whiting)
Mezgit is a fish that likes cold water, with white, tender flesh; it usually becomes more plentiful towards winter. It is pan-fried or steamed, and its mild taste also makes it a good start for those not used to fish.
Kalkan (turbot)
Kalkan is the large flatfish of the Black Sea; it is usually seen more often on the counters as the weather cools. Because of its meaty texture it is mostly pan-fried and eaten shared.
What Changes the Fishing Season and the Catch?
How plentiful a fish is depends less on the calendar than on water temperature, currents and the movement of the shoals; the same goes for anchovy, bonito and bluefish. A fish that is plentiful one week can disappear from the counter the next. Legal fishing periods and minimum sizes are set by the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry's fisheries regulations; for current information, check the ministry's fisheries directorate.
When buying fish in November, people usually look for these signs:
Eyes: They should be bright, full and clear; cloudy eyes can point to fish that has been kept too long.
Gills: A vivid red colour shows freshness; a darkened colour is not preferred.
Flesh: It should spring back when pressed with a finger.
Smell: A light smell of the sea is normal; a sharp smell is not a good sign.
How Is November Fish Eaten at a Meyhane?
At a meyhane, November fish usually sits in the middle of a long evening that opens with cold mezes. Small fish such as anchovy and horse mackerel often come on a plate set in the middle of the table, while larger fish such as turbot are usually chosen according to the number of people at the table and shared.
Two ways stand out for finding November fish in Istanbul: buying it at a fish market and cooking at home, or sitting down at a table that serves fish by season. The Kadıköy Fish Market is a popular stop on the Asian Side for walking past the stalls and seeing the day's fish. When choosing among Kadıköy's restaurants and meyhanes, it helps to look at the neighbourhood and the style of evening; you will find the details in our guide to dinner in Kadıköy.
At Koço's Table
In the fish section of Koço's menu you will also see hamsi, istavrit, kalkan and lüfer; the fish varieties change daily, so it is worth asking which fish are available that day. Cold and hot mezes and rakı come to the table alongside the fish. Rakı is poured first, then cold water; ice stays in a separate bowl and is added last if wanted.
Koço is music-free, its garden and terrace are open all year, and from the terrace you can see the Sea of Marmara, the Princes' Islands, Fenerbahçe and the historic peninsula skyline. It is open every day 12:00–00:00.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Which fish can you eat in November?
In November, Istanbul's counters are usually led by anchovy, horse mackerel, bonito, bluefish, whiting and turbot. Which fish is plentiful depends on water temperature, the weather and the catch, so asking for the day's fish at the counter or at the table is the surest way.
2. Can you eat whiting and turbot in November?
Yes, whiting and turbot usually start to appear more often on the counters in November; both are fish that come forward as winter approaches. Whiting is mostly pan-fried or steamed, while turbot is usually pan-fried. Legal fishing periods and minimum sizes are set by the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry's regulations.
3. Can you eat bonito and bluefish in November?
Yes, bonito and bluefish are usually still on the counters in November; both are fish of the autumn migration. As the month goes on the shoals can thin out, so abundance changes from week to week. Both are usually grilled or baked and come to the table with a seasonal salad.
4. When do you order November fish at a meyhane?
At a meyhane, fish is usually ordered after the cold mezes, alongside or after the hot starters. Asking about the type of fish and how it is cooked when you order makes it easier to set the pace of the table; in November, anchovy and horse mackerel usually come pan-fried, and bonito and bluefish mostly grilled.
November's anchovy, horse mackerel or bluefish sits at the centre of a long table with cold mezes and rakı. Across from Moda Pier, Koço Restaurant is open every day for seasonal fish at a music-free table.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier)
Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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