When to Eat Hamsi? Anchovy Season and the Meyhane Table
Hamsi is usually eaten in winter; it is common at the counter from late autumn to the end of winter, and its most sought-after period for flavour is often December to February. In this period it comes to the meyhane table fried, steamed or as ançüez. This guide was written by Koço Restaurant, a century-old meyhane across from Moda Pier.
Short answer: Hamsi is a winter fish, and its most sought-after period is usually December to February; for choosing fish month by month, see the seasonal fish guide. At a meyhane, hamsi usually arrives hot as fried hamsi or cold as an ançüez meze.
In Which Months Is Hamsi Eaten?
Hamsi, the anchovy, is a small, silver fish that moves in schools; in Türkiye it is caught mostly in the Black Sea. When the water starts to cool, the schools usually move closer to the southern coasts of the Black Sea; this is why hamsi is common in Istanbul from late autumn to the end of winter. The period most awaited for flavour is usually December, January and February. When spring arrives, hamsi becomes scarce at the counter and gives way to other seasonal fish.
The fishing season and the eating season are not the same thing
Rules such as the start and end dates of commercial fishing and the minimum catch size are set by regulations of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry. These dates show the legal framework of the catch, not the period when the fish tastes its best. For current fishing rules, check the Ministry's fisheries page; at the table, the choice is usually made by the fat and size of the fish.
Why Is Hamsi Tastier in Winter?
Hamsi stores fat as it feeds through summer and autumn; fish caught as winter sets in is therefore usually found plumper and more aromatic. An oily fish takes on flavour from its own fat as it fries, and stays soft and juicy when steamed. At the start and end of the season hamsi can be thinner and less oily. This difference is the main reason the same dish tastes different in different months.
How Is Hamsi Eaten at a Meyhane?
At a meyhane table hamsi can appear in two separate places: among the cold mezes as ançüez, and at the main course as a hot fish dish. Which form it takes depends on the season, the fish of the day and the flow of the meal.
Fried hamsi
Fried hamsi, known as hamsi tava, is a familiar dish often seen at the winter table. The fish, usually with its head and insides removed and often its bone as well, is coated in corn flour and fried briefly in hot oil. It is often served with lemon, onion or greens.
Hamsi ançüez
Ançüez is a cold meze made by curing hamsi, usually with salt and vinegar or lemon. At a meyhane it comes together with other cold seafood mezes; for a general introduction to these mezes, see the seafood meze guide.
Steamed hamsi and pilaf
Steamed hamsi, hamsi buğulama, is usually made by cooking the fish slowly with onion, tomato and lemon. Hamsi pilaf is also common in Black Sea cooking; this dish is associated more with home and regional kitchens than with the meyhane.
How Does Hamsi Go with Rakı?
Oily and salty dishes such as fried hamsi are usually well balanced by the anise aroma of rakı. A meal that starts with a cold ançüez continues with hot hamsi; a light green such as a seasonal salad or rocket can come in between. When the rakı is sipped in small mouthfuls, the taste of the fish also comes forward.
At the Koço Table
Founded in 1928 by Konstantinos "Koço" Korontos, Koço is a century-old meyhane. Hamsi can be seen in the fish section of the Koço menu; the fish varieties change daily, so it is worth asking which fish are available that day. Hamsi Ançüez also appears on the menu among the cold mezes. Rakı is poured into the glass first, then cold water is added; ice comes in a separate bowl and is added last, if you like. Koço is music-free, open every day 12:00–00:00, and its garden and terrace are open all year; for a first visit, the guide on what to order at Koço shows the way.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. When is hamsi eaten?
Hamsi is usually eaten in the winter months and its most sought-after period is often December to February. It is common at the fish counter from late autumn to the end of winter and becomes scarce in spring. Commercial fishing dates are set by regulations of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry.
2. What is hamsi ançüez?
Hamsi ançüez is a cold meze made by curing hamsi, usually with salt and vinegar or lemon. At a meyhane it comes together with other cold seafood mezes and makes a light start that often pairs with rakı.
3. In what form does hamsi come at a meyhane?
At a meyhane hamsi usually comes as a hot fish dish, fried or steamed, and among the cold mezes as ançüez. Which one is available depends on the season and the fish of the day.
4. How can you tell if hamsi is fresh?
Fresh hamsi has bright silver skin, clear and full eyes, and reddish gills. Its flesh is firm, springs back quickly when pressed and carries a light smell of the sea. Hamsi whose eyes have clouded, whose belly has softened or whose smell has grown heavy has lost its freshness.
Hamsi is a fish that rounds off the winter table in two different forms, fried and as ançüez. If you would like to try hamsi with rakı at a meyhane table across from Moda Pier, Koço Restaurant is open every day from noon until midnight.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier)
Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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