Best Meyhane in Istanbul? Six Things That Make a Great One
Every year a new list of the “best meyhanes in Istanbul” appears, and names come and go. What makes a meyhane genuinely good stays the same. This guide explains those criteria, shows where to find meyhanes across the city, and uses Koço, a century-old meyhane across from Moda Pier, as a worked example.
Short answer: There is no single best meyhane in Istanbul; the right one depends on the evening you want. If you are looking for a century-old tradition, a sea view and a music-free, conversation-first table, Koço Restaurant in Moda, Kadıköy is a strong choice. Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open daily 12:00–00:00.
What Is a Meyhane?
A meyhane is a traditional Istanbul tavern built around shared mezes, rakı and long conversation. Instead of a single main course, the table fills slowly: cold mezes first, then hot mezes, then the fish of the season. Rakı, the aniseed spirit that turns milky white with water, is the classic drink; wine and beer are served too. If it is your first time, our beginner's guide to meyhanes explains how ordering works.
Six Things That Make a Great Meyhane
1. Continuity
A meyhane is judged by how long it has kept the same standard in the kitchen, in the service and in the atmosphere. Koço has been serving guests since 1928, when it was founded by Konstantinos “Koço” Korontos, and its recipes and table habits have been passed down through the family.
2. The Kitchen
The kitchen is the heart of a meyhane. Cold mezes, hot mezes and seasonal fish should come together as one table, not as separate orders. A few classics at Koço show the approach:
Lakerda: cured bonito, salted according to the season.
Fava: a purée of Aegean broad beans, left to rest for six hours.
Shrimp güveç: shrimp, tomato, garlic and kaşar cheese, and nothing more.
Fish of the season: chosen from the counter that day.
3. Atmosphere: Sound, Light and Air
Sound: Koço is a music-free meyhane. There is no live music or fasıl, so the table sets its own volume and conversation comes first. This is the clearest difference from the louder, music-led meyhanes elsewhere in the city.
Light: warm light in the indoor hall and small lamps among the trees in the garden, never harsh white light.
Air: open-air dining is at its best on summer evenings, but the garden and terrace are open all year round, and the breeze from the sea keeps the terrace cool.
4. The View
A sea view is more than a backdrop; it changes how the meal feels. From Koço's terrace the Sea of Marmara opens up in a wide panorama, from the Princes' Islands to Sarayburnu and Fenerbahçe. A terrace table at sunset is the classic way to start the evening.
5. Memory
A good meyhane remembers its guests: their usual table, their favourite mezes, how they like their lakerda. Several of Koço's waiters have worked here for decades, and the black-and-white photographs on the walls belong to the same memory.
6. Cultural Ties
A meyhane's value also lies in its past. Writers such as Haldun Taner, Cemal Süreya, Fazıl Hüsnü Dağlarca and Arif Damar sat at Koço's tables, and beneath the restaurant lies the Aya Ekaterini holy spring (ayazma), a reminder of Moda's Greek Orthodox heritage. You can read more in the story of Koço Restaurant.
Where to Find Meyhanes in Istanbul
Each part of the city has its own meyhane character:
Beyoğlu (Asmalımescit and Nevizade): the classic meyhane quarter of the European side; busy, lively and often loud on weekend nights.
Kumkapı: fish restaurants in the old city, known for festive evenings with fasıl music.
Samatya: a neighbourhood known for its fish and meze tables, generally calmer than the city centre.
The Bosphorus shore: seafood dining close to the water in the villages along the strait.
Kadıköy and Moda (Asian side): a mix of historic and new-generation meyhanes, with the Moda coastline as the place to look for a sea view. Koço is across from Moda Pier. See our Kadıköy meyhane guide and our guide to meyhanes on Istanbul's Asian side.
How to Choose the Right Meyhane for Your Evening
For conversation: choose a music-free meyhane. Our guide to quiet, music-free meyhanes in Istanbul explains what to look for.
For a sea view: look along the Bosphorus or the Moda coast; see sea-view meyhanes in Istanbul.
For history: look for a meyhane that has kept its own tradition for decades; see Istanbul's oldest meyhanes.
For groups and celebrations: check capacity and book ahead. Koço seats more than 500 guests across its indoor hall, garden and terrace.
For rakı and fish: go where the fish changes with the season. Our seasonal fish guide shows what to eat in which month.
Getting to Koço from the European Side
Take the ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy; the crossing takes about 20 minutes and is part of the evening. From the Kadıköy ferry terminal, Moda is about a 15-minute walk, or you can take the T3 Moda tram. Koço is at Moda Caddesi No:171, across from Moda Pier.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is the best meyhane in Istanbul?
There is no single answer; it depends on the evening you want. For a century-old meyhane with a sea view and no live music, Koço Restaurant in Moda, Kadıköy, serving since 1928 across from Moda Pier, is a strong choice.
Is there a meyhane in Istanbul without live music?
Yes. Many meyhanes have fasıl music, especially in Kumkapı and Beyoğlu, but some are music-free. Koço Restaurant in Moda has no live music or fasıl, so conversation comes first.
Which Istanbul meyhanes have a sea view?
The Bosphorus shore and the Moda coast in Kadıköy are the main areas. Koço's terrace looks over the Sea of Marmara towards the Princes' Islands, Sarayburnu and Fenerbahçe.
Can Koço host large groups?
Yes. Koço seats more than 500 guests across its indoor hall, garden and terrace, and the garden and terrace are open all year round. For large groups, book ahead on +90 216 336 07 95.
Do I need a reservation?
It is recommended, especially at weekends and if you would like a terrace table at sunset. Call +90 216 336 07 95.
What are Koço's address and opening hours?
Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul, across from Moda Pier. Open every day from 12:00 to 00:00.
Visit Koço Restaurant
Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00.
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