Meyhane in Winter: How the Istanbul Table Changes in the Cold Months
Picture a meyhane, the traditional Turkish tavern of shared meze plates, rakı (an aniseed spirit) and long conversation, and you will probably see a summer garden. Yet Istanbul's meyhane tradition carries on through the cold months; only the table's centre of gravity shifts. At Koço, a century-old meyhane across from Moda Pier and open since 1928, we see this change every winter.
Short answer: A meyhane in winter is the same table from November to February: winter fish such as hamsi (anchovy), palamut (bonito), lüfer (bluefish), kalkan (turbot) and mezgit (whiting) fill the counter, hot mezes arrive earlier, and evenings run longer. At Koço the warm-lit dining room, the garden and the terrace all stay open in winter. Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy; open daily 12:00–00:00; reservations on +90 216 336 07 95.
What is a winter meyhane? The table from November to February
A winter meyhane is not a separate kind of place; it is the same table answering the season. In summer the evening begins with a long sunset; in winter the lights are already on across the water when you sit down. The change shows in three places: the counter, the mezes and the pace.
Our open-air meyhane season guide covers eating outdoors; this one covers the same table in winter. The criteria behind the best meyhane in Istanbul hold in winter too; only how they show on the table changes.
Winter fish in Istanbul: from hamsi to turbot
Fish is chosen daily from the counter, which looks different in winter. Istanbul's leading cold-month fish:
• Hamsi (anchovy): the best-known winter fish; most often fried.
• Palamut (bonito): late autumn into winter; grilled, or as buğulama, gently steamed with vegetables.
• Lüfer (bluefish): larger fish turn up in the cold months; best grilled.
• Kalkan (turbot): the big fish of winter; usually fried in thick slices.
• Mezgit (whiting): light and white-fleshed; usually fried.
Our seasonal fish guide explains which fish is best in which month. At Koço the rule never changes: ask the waiter what is on the counter today. Buğulama and frying suit the winter table as well as the grill.
Hot mezes come forward: prawn güveç, fried calamari, grilled octopus
The cold meze tray still opens the meal in winter: lakerda (cured bonito), fava (broad-bean purée), aubergine salad, topik (chickpea and onion), purslane and atom (strained yoghurt with fried dried chillies). What changes is what follows: the ara sıcak, or hot starters, come earlier and in greater number than in summer.
Among Koço's hot dishes, prawn güveç (baked in a clay pot), fried calamari and grilled octopus suit a winter evening particularly well; the güveç keeps its heat at the table long after it arrives.
Does rakı change in winter?
Service is the same in every season: rakı first, cold water on top; ice comes in a separate bowl, added last if at all. The usual ratio is one part rakı to two parts water, to taste; in winter some skip the ice.
The dining room, warm light and a music-free evening
On winter evenings the dining room comes into its own. Koço's salon is lit in warm tones, and its wooden décor and old photographs frame the table against the cold outside. Koço is a music-free meyhane, with no live music or fasıl (traditional live ensemble music); indoors on a winter evening, the only sound is conversation.
The pace turns inward too: cold mezes are eaten slowly, conversation fills the gaps between hot dishes, the fish comes late and dessert (soufflé or seasonal fruit) is in no hurry. Koço was a haunt of writers such as Fazıl Hüsnü Dağlarca, Cemal Süreya, Arif Damar and Haldun Taner. Our guide to quiet, music-free meyhanes in Istanbul applies in winter too.
The garden and terrace stay open in winter
Are Koço's garden and terrace open in winter? Yes, all year round, for anyone who wants to sit outside. On a clear winter lunchtime the terrace looks across the Marmara to the Princes' Islands, Fenerbahçe and the skyline of the historic peninsula, with Moda Pier directly opposite.
In the evening it comes down to preference: a glass on the terrace in your coat, facing the lights on the water, or straight into the dining room. Just say which when you book. For a Moda waterfront evening in any season, start with our Kadıköy meyhane guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Koço's garden and terrace open in winter?
Yes. Koço's garden and terrace are open all year, so you can sit outside facing the Marmara in the cold months too; the warm-lit dining room is the other option.
What fish should I eat at a meyhane in winter?
From November to February Istanbul's fish counters are led by hamsi (anchovy), palamut (bonito), lüfer (bluefish), kalkan (turbot) and mezgit (whiting). At Koço, ask the waiter which is best that day.
Is a winter meyhane meal more about hot or cold mezes?
The cold meze tray still opens the meal, but hot mezes such as prawn güveç, fried calamari and grilled octopus come earlier and more often in winter.
Is Koço open in winter, and how do I get there?
Yes. Koço is open every day from 12:00 to 00:00, winter and summer alike, at Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy. Take the ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy (about 20 minutes), then walk about 15 minutes or take the T3 Moda tram. Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95.
Winter takes nothing away from the meyhane table; it brings winter fish to the counter, hot mezes to the table and longer conversation to the evening. Across from Moda Pier, Koço's dining room, garden and terrace stay open all winter; a phone call is all it takes to book.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier) · Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
Comments