A November Evening at a Meyhane in Istanbul: How to Plan It
In November, a meyhane evening in Istanbul starts earlier because the days get dark early; a good plan is built on timing, the way home and the order of the table. The criteria for best meyhanes in Istanbul are covered in a separate guide. This guide was written by Koço, a century-old meyhane; today Koço is across from Moda Pier.
Short answer: For a November meyhane evening, it helps to sit down before sunset, plan the way home around public transport times, and open the table with cold mezes before moving on to seasonal fish. If you want a view and a music-free table in the early-dark hours, Koço is a strong choice.
Why Does a Meyhane Evening Start Earlier in November?
November is the month when the days in Istanbul clearly get shorter. The sun usually sets around five in the afternoon, and a little earlier as the month goes on; by the time work ends, it is already dark. So a table that wants a sea view or daylight is set earlier than in summer.
An evening that starts early has its own advantage. A table that sits down early can take the mezes, hot starters and fish in order without rushing, and still get home comfortably before midnight. Even a weekday evening can turn into a long meyhane table if you leave work a little early.
How Do You Plan an Evening That Gets Dark Early?
It helps to think of a November evening plan in four steps. The order runs from the time you choose to the table and what you wear.
Choose the time by the sunset. If you want the view, be at the table about half an hour before sunset; for more on that kind of evening, see sunset dinner in Moda.
Plan the way home from the start. Evening times for ferries, the T3 nostalgic tram and rail lines vary by line and by day; checking current times before you set out is better than watching the clock at the table.
Build the table in order. Start with cold mezes, continue with hot starters, and leave the seasonal fish for the middle of the table.
Dress for the weather. November evenings by the sea can be cool and windy; bringing a jacket or a warm cardigan makes the evening more comfortable.
For those coming from the European side, the ferry is part of the evening. The ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy takes about 20 minutes; from Kadıköy pier, Moda is reached on foot or by the T3 nostalgic tram. The guide from the European side to Kadıköy covers the whole route.
In What Order Do You Eat at the Table?
A meyhane table usually opens with cold mezes: white cheese, aubergine, fava, haydari and spicy ezme go with the first glass of rakı. Hot starters come next; squid, börek or sıcak ot warm up the table. Fish usually arrives in the middle of the meal or towards the end.
November is a lively month for Black Sea and Marmara fish. Hamsi (anchovy) is usually seen more often on tables from the second half of autumn; horse mackerel and bonito are also often mentioned at this time. If you wonder which fish tastes better in which month, the seasonal fish guide offers a detailed calendar.
For rakı, the order is clear: rakı first, then cold water; ice comes in a separate bowl and, if wanted, goes in last. The ratio is usually one part rakı to two parts water, to taste. Newcomers to rakı can find the answer to how to drink rakı step by step.
A November table at Koço
On Koço's live menu, Sıcak Ot is listed among the hot mezes. Hamsi also appears in the fish section of the menu; the fish varieties change daily, so it is worth asking which fish are available that day. The table is built on cold and hot mezes, seasonal fish and rakı; Koço is music-free, with no live music or fasıl. Koço was founded in 1928 by Konstantinos "Koço" Korontos.
Weekend or Weekday?
Weekend meyhane evenings are usually busier in November too. A weekday evening offers a calmer table, and leaving work a little early is enough to catch the sunset. If you want an evening built around conversation, choosing a music-free meyhane makes things easier.
November afternoons are a good option as well. Koço is open every day 12:00–00:00; coming at lunchtime and sitting in daylight is a practical answer to the early dark. Koço's garden and terrace are open all year; from the terrace you can see the Sea of Marmara, the Princes' Islands, Fenerbahçe and the historic peninsula skyline. Calling ahead makes weekend evenings easier; for reservations, call +90 216 336 07 95.
Who Is Koço Right For, and Who Is It Not?
Right for: People who want to talk at a music-free table; those who want a view from the terrace; large groups, with room for more than 500 guests; those looking for a rakı and fish table; those who want to come at lunchtime.
Not right for: People looking for live music or fasıl; those who want to carry on after 00:00; those looking for a bar-street crowd.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What time should you go to a meyhane in November?
If you want the view, it helps to be at the table about half an hour before sunset. In November the sun usually sets around five in the afternoon, so the table is set earlier than in summer. An early start leaves time to enjoy the mezes, hot starters and fish without rushing and to get home comfortably before midnight.
2. How do you start the meyhane table on a November evening?
The table usually starts with cold mezes, then hot starters follow, and the seasonal fish is left for last. Starting with a few mezes and adding more as the evening goes on avoids waste. At Koço, hamsi and sıcak ot are on the menu; the fish change daily, so it is worth asking which fish are available that day.
3. How do you get to Koço on a November evening?
From the European side, the ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy takes about 20 minutes. From Kadıköy pier, Moda is reached on foot or by the T3 nostalgic tram. For the way home in the evening, it helps to check current ferry and tram times before you set out; Koço is open every day 12:00–00:00.
A November evening gets dark early, but for a well-planned meyhane table that is an advantage: a table that sits down early enjoys both the sunset and the fish without rushing. For a music-free table and a garden and terrace open all year, the century-old meyhane Koço Restaurant, across from Moda Pier, is open every day 12:00–00:00.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier)
Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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