Where to Eat Fish in Istanbul: A Neighbourhood Guide
Where to eat fish in Istanbul depends on the neighbourhood and the kind of table you want: Kumkapı, the Bosphorus villages, the Karaköy and Eminönü waterfront, Kadıköy and Moda are usually the first places that come to mind. This guide was written by Koço, a century-old meyhane across from Moda Pier; our guide to the best meyhanes in Istanbul covers how to choose a meyhane.
Short answer: Fish restaurants in Istanbul usually cluster along the shore: Kumkapı for a meyhane atmosphere, the Bosphorus villages for tables by the water, Eminönü for balık ekmek (fish sandwiches), Kadıköy and Moda for the market and the seafront. In November, anchovy, horse mackerel and bonito usually lead the fish counters. If you are looking for seasonal fish and rakı at a music-free meyhane on the Asian Side, Koço is a strong option.
Which Neighbourhoods Do People Go to for Fish in Istanbul?
The neighbourhoods where Istanbul sits down to fish are concentrated along the shores where the city meets the sea. Each has its own pace: some are lively meyhane streets, some are quiet seafronts, some are quick stops around a ferry pier. The areas below describe general tendencies; very different styles can sit side by side in the same neighbourhood.
Kumkapı: meyhane streets and fish tables
Kumkapı, on the Marmara shore of the Historic Peninsula, is a neighbourhood where fish and meze tables have been laid for a long time. Its streets are usually crowded and lively in the evening; tables often spill out onto the street, and in some places music or fasıl accompanies the meal. It suits people who enjoy a busy evening and a vibrant street atmosphere.
The Bosphorus villages and Sarıyer: fish along the shore
On the European shore, the Bosphorus villages stretching from Arnavutköy to Tarabya and from Sarıyer to Rumelikavağı are frequent stops for people who want to eat fish by the water. On the Asian shore, Anadolu Kavağı offers a similar pier-side table. Tables usually look out over the Bosphorus; lunchtime and weekends tend to be busier. Because of the distance from the city centre, it is worth planning a ferry or a drive along the shore road.
Karaköy and Eminönü: balık ekmek and quick meals
The Karaköy and Eminönü waterfront is the first place that comes to mind for balık ekmek in Istanbul. Around the ferry piers, fish sandwiches eaten standing up and a counter culture usually carry on all day; in Karaköy there are also stalls selling fish. It suits those looking for a quick meal rather than a long table, and those taking a short break before boarding a ferry.
Kadıköy and Moda: market, seafront and meyhane
On the Asian Side, the area around Kadıköy Çarşı and the Fish Market is usually lively all day with fishmongers' stalls and meze shops; as you head towards Moda the pace slows, and calmer tables are laid along the seafront. For evening options, see our guide to dinner in Kadıköy.
The Princes' Islands: fish around the pier
On the Princes' Islands, fish tables are usually laid around the ferry pier. Because the ferry ride is part of the day, lunchtime or the early evening is preferred; planning around the time of the return ferry makes things easier.
Where and What to Eat for Fish in November?
In November, choosing fish in Istanbul is shaped more by the season than by the neighbourhood. As the weather cools, fish arriving from the Black Sea usually take centre stage on the counters: anchovy (hamsi), horse mackerel (istavrit) and Atlantic bonito (palamut) are the most common fish of the month, and bluefish (lüfer) also usually appears on autumn tables. Anchovy usually comes to the table pan-fried or baked in pilaf, while bonito is grilled or steamed.
When choosing a neighbourhood for fish in November, looking at the style of the evening is enough. Eminönü for a quick balık ekmek, Kumkapı for a crowded evening with music, the Bosphorus villages for a seaside lunch, and Kadıköy and Moda for a quiet meyhane evening are usually a good start. To see in detail which fish is eaten in which month, take a look at our seasonal fish guide.
What Should You Look for When Choosing a Fish Table?
When choosing a fish place or a meyhane in Istanbul, a few questions shape the evening. The criteria below work regardless of the neighbourhood:
Season: Asking which fish are on the counter that day is the easiest way to choose seasonal fish.
Atmosphere: Decide whether you want a crowded evening with music or a calm table where conversation takes centre stage.
Style of table: A fish sandwich, a fish plate and a long meze-and-rakı table are different evenings; at a meyhane, fish usually comes after the mezes.
Getting there: Taking the ferry to most waterfront neighbourhoods is both easy and part of the evening.
Time: A lunch table and an evening that runs towards midnight suit different neighbourhoods.
Fish and Rakı at Koço
Koço is a meyhane; it was founded in 1928 by Konstantinos "Koço" Korontos. Cold and hot mezes, seasonal fish and rakı share the table. Anchovy is also among Koço's fish; the fish varieties change daily, so it is worth asking which fish are available that day. Among the cold mezes, marinated sea bass (levrek marin) is also on the menu.
Today Koço is a music-free meyhane across from Moda Pier, open every day 12:00–00:00; there is no live music or fasıl. From the terrace you can see the Sea of Marmara, the Princes' Islands, Fenerbahçe and the historic peninsula skyline. The ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy reaches Kadıköy in about 20 minutes; from there, Moda is reached on foot or by the T3 heritage tram. For details, see our guide from the European Side to Kadıköy by ferry.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Which neighbourhoods are known for fish in Istanbul?
For fish, people usually head to Kumkapı, the Bosphorus villages around Sarıyer and the Rumeli shore, the Karaköy and Eminönü area, and Kadıköy and Moda on the Asian Side. Each has its own style: some are busy and lively, others quieter by the water. It helps to choose by the purpose of the evening and the way home.
2. Where can you eat balık ekmek in Istanbul?
Balık ekmek, the Istanbul fish sandwich, is usually associated with the Eminönü and Karaköy waterfront. The stalls around the ferry piers are usually open all day and suit a short break while waiting for a ferry. Those who want a long table usually choose a meyhane or a neighbourhood known for fish tables.
3. How do you get to Kadıköy for fish from the European Side?
The ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy takes about 20 minutes. From Kadıköy pier you can walk to Moda or take the T3 heritage tram. Coming by ferry in the evening and planning the way back in advance makes it easier to sit at the table without watching the clock.
4. Is there fish at Koço?
Yes, Koço is a meyhane and seasonal fish is part of the table; anchovy is also among its fish. The fish varieties change daily, so it is worth asking which fish are available that day. Among the cold mezes, marinated sea bass (levrek marin) is also on the menu.
For a calm meyhane table with seasonal fish and rakı on a November evening, we look forward to welcoming you across from Moda Pier. For the current menu and contact details, visit Koço Restaurant.
Address: Moda Caddesi No:171, Kadıköy, Istanbul (across from Moda Pier)
Reservations: +90 216 336 07 95 · Open every day 12:00–00:00
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